Shrine up in mountainside

Paraw Bibi is one of the most impressive and popular pilgrimage shrines of Turkmenistan located in northwest of Gyzylarbat in Paraw village. The shrine itself, a while-mausoleum-like structure, what is historically thought to be a mosque, is located 100 meters up in the mountainside. In addition to mausoleum there are adjoining chambers, guest houses and platforms where pilgrims share meals. Remains of the ancient city dating back to ninth century are located near mentioned sites. The city served as Arab fortress border against Oghuz and served as an important town leading to Khorezm. Remain shrine-mausoleum to a Paraw Ata are among the town ruins. There are various legends connected to the shire. One of the legends states that Paraw Bibi was a beautiful maiden, an object of jealousy of many women. During military threats jealous women wanted to turn Paraw Bibi to invaders in exchange for promises not to carry attacks. Paraw Bibi cursed woman causing her to turn into black stone. Soon thereafter, while on the mountainside, Paraw Bibi saw the enemy party approaching. With this she realized the hopelessness of her situation and ordered the mountain to split open so that she might enter into it, thus preserving her purity and virtue. After the miraculous event the locals were commanded by God to build a shrine to Paraw Bibi at the site where she opened the mountain. They believed, because of her bravery and refusal to submit, Paraw Bibi was a true hero (batyr) who had been blessed by the holy breath of the prophets. Around the complex there are many "miracle working" stones and impressions of Paraw Bibi's hands and knees left in stone. One stone is said to be a watermelon that Paraw Bibi had been about to eat. According to legend, at the moment when Paraw Bibi was to cut the melon the enemies attacked and thus she threw it down in haste. At that moment it turned into stone. Watermelon-shaped stone said to be that same stone from the time of Paraw Bibi was used by pilgrims as a "detector of sin." It was placed on the thumbs of two people; if the stone rotates no sin had been committed by those balancing it. The shrine is mostly visited by women who have problems with child conception, those desiring to find true love and happiness in marriage. Once pilgrimage was mentioned by a person out loud it has to be done as soon as possible, otherwise bad luck will follow the person until he/she finally visits the shrine. Huh, guess I am obliged myself to visit the shrine as soon as I get to Turkmenistan.

A phrase to think about

A sign on the Bishkek Arts Museum reads : "The Coalition Forces Are Pleased To See This Great Transformation". What is that supposed to mean?

On April 23, couple of honors students (including me) and two juniors from American Studies accompanied by staff members will head to Osh, the southern capital of Kyrgyzstan to participate in the annual American Studies Symposium, which this year will be held in the Osh State University.

The other day I was asking colleagues what is there to see in Osh, and got couple of valuable advices. First was to try "tamdyr samsas", but I was told not to buy them just from street venders, but go to Kyrgyzstan cafe, located on Kyrgyzstan street.

Second, we have to visit the Suleima Too (Suleiman Mountain), slide on our backs from some hill (preferable 7 times) and stick our hand to some hole to make a wish. I was told if I make a global wish (like peace in the world) then all my other wishes and dreams will come true. Have to think about global wish now.

On the picture: Suleiman Too gate.

Visiting Kow-Ata Lake this summer

Couple of years ago I already visited the underground lake in Turkmenistan. Upon my arrival home in June I am doing it again.

Kow-Ata (Father of Caves) underground lake located in Bakharden at the foothills of the Kopet-Dag Mountains. At a first glance this underground area looks like magnificent auditorium: the overall length of the cave is 230 m, its height goes up to 20m, and its width is at some points 57m. 

The bottom of the cave is covered with lumps of lime. Its warm and running water is clear and emerald colored. Even in artificial lightning tiny stones on the bottom can be seen. As you approach the lake you will feel the air becoming damper and warmer. You can hear sounds like sighs or whispers above your head. These are pigeons which inhabit the cave in great abundance. 

The water has a constant temperature 33- 37°C. Chemical analysis has shown that water contains a complex combination of chemical elements-30 have been found to date.

Several legends surround the lake. One is about the cow which every day joined the shepherd’s herd. One day the shepherd followed the cow to find an owner and claim fees. The cow arrived to the lake where an old man was sitting who gave the shepherd a small bag as a shepherding fee. All the shepherd found in the bag was a bunch of fig leaves, which he threw away in disgust. He gave the bag to his wife as a gift, but found one remaining leaf in it, which turned out to be gold. When he rushed back to pick the thrown leaves he found a garden of fig trees but no sign of cow or the old man. That is how the name of the cave originated, and from Turkmen language translates as “the old man in the cave” or “father of caves”.

On the picture, view of the cave from the botton, where the lake is.

Places to visit in Balkan welayat, Turkmenistan

DEKHISTAN - a unique city, also known as Misrian located in western Turkmenistan near the Caspian Sea. Together with the neighboring ancient Mashed graveyard, Dekhistan is called Mashed - Misrian by Turkmen. Dekhistan or Misrian is not only an ancient city itself, but all the adjacent province, in other words - the Misrian oasis, which several centuries after unknown disaster, remained hardly noticeable signs. The city existed in the IX - XIV centuries. Its total area was about 200 ha, the city was surrounded by a double ring of defensive walls. Among the unique architecture (mosques, minarets, madrasahs and a number of cultural erections) only well-known mausoleum Shir-Kabir ( the 11th - the 12th centuries), t wo 25-meter-high minarets, a cathedral mosque portal , the remains of clay city walls, the ruins of caravan serais and the mausoleums on Mashat necropolis have survived.

On the picture: Remains of Shir-Kabir Mosque